An act of revealing, removing what is behind, below. By cutting away, opening up and looking beneath the surface, it uncovers truths. A perception of the before, in anticipating the next. The Marni Spring Summer 2027 collection takes, at its base, the notion of change – a cutting away, at a foundation, to evolve a future. Discovery, for a new chapter.
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Creative Director Meryll Rogge
Cut-outs frame the body. Backless knits strip away the expected structure of menswear; shoes reveal the skin beneath, while transparent fabrics offer glimpses of the leg. The Modernista bag is sliced open, and the Trunkette gives a signature Marni silhouette a lighter form. Embroidery takes on the character of an objet trouvé: lifted from one garment, placed on another and given new meaning.
Femininity is heightened and reworked through curves, underwear details and unexpected materials. The outline of a brassière is built into a garment, turning an inner layer outward. Buttons and loops suggest the possibility of opening and reveal; enlarged and moved onto leather and wool, they become playful elements of design. Rectilinear shift dresses in double-duchesse silk gabardine carry enlarged prints drawn from the surfaces of earlier garments. Sequins are punctured with eyelets, jewelry is embellished again, and signature hardware moves between garments and accessories.
Presence and absence shape the collection. Openings, exposed linings, fragmented surfaces and dissected constructions make the inside visible. The same dialogue between what is there and what has been removed extends to the show design, conceived with Formafantasma. Techniques of construction become decoration in their own right, expressing the pleasure of making and building anew.